GreatAlbatross

I started looking into non-carplay/auto big-screen head units when I bought mine, and kinda hit a wall on it.
They're either really old, and windows CE, or shitty android based ones from alibaba.

As much as I hate putting myself into a system that depends on my phone, I don't hate androidauto/carplay based systems. They just kinda...work.

If you just want a basic head unit (single din), the name brands are, honestly, much of a muchness.
They all use very similar 4x50w (iirc, 22w rms) output amplifiers.
The only real options are number of pre-outs (for connecting subwoofers, or other amplifiers), and whether or not it has a CD drive.

Replace the cabin filter (10 minute job) with a carbon activated one. I find it makes a big difference on longer drives, otherwise my nose/throat are awful.
Don't worry about the ticking sound the engine makes when it's cold, that's normal.
Check what the tyres are like (age from the DOT code, and tread).
When you're feeling flush, I recommend getting all-season tyres, Goodyear Vector 4 have served me well.
Upgrading the speakers is not difficult, and makes a big difference. (At least under 50mph, lol). The door speakers need to be under a certain depth, or the windows won't go down.
If you want CarPlay/Android auto, the fitting kit for a standard 2-din unit is about £25, and a half-decent unit is about £200 (Sony xav-3250).

Imo, it's well worth getting some good cleaning supplies.
A good shampoo to get it clean (I like megiuars gold class), then a sealant to keep it clean longer (meguiars ultimate ~~sealant~~ wax, comes with applicators too).
Wash with the two bucket method, and a couple of microfibre mitts.

Get a dashcam as soon as you can reasonably afford one, and set it up.
I like the Viofo A129 duo, it's basically invisible behind the mirror.
Halfords have this one on special if you don't want to spend that much:

On the actual driving side, once you've had a bit of time getting used to driving, buy yourself a copy of Roadcraft, and have a good read through of the advanced techniques, particularly IPSGA, the Car Control system, and limit points.
Learn to drive defensively, and you'll avoid a lot of sticky situations entirely, rather than having to suddenly do things.
Sometimes, you just have to let dickhead drivers be dickheads: You may be in the right, but if you crash you're both in an accident.

With the right investment into production automation, and classifying energy generation as a national security factor, I could see us building our own at prices that make sense.
The real kicker I guess is going to be the supply of rare earths required.

not flash enough to make their Instagram account about renovating the house which I have been advised not to read as they are horrible people with bad taste

I'll take "slapping grey paint on every surface, then fitting grey laminate flooring and black gloss worktops" for $500, Alex.

That, and painting over every patch of damp with tanking rather than actually fixing it.

I like to rant about this, but it is possible to insulate old properties without causing damp and mould.
It requires understanding of how the materials work (breathability, etc), and more expensive materials, so it's often difficult to get it done for a reasonable price.

'You'll need new radiators, and ideally more insulation'
"Utterly unworkable, now fit me a new gas boiler"

(Imo, the thing really holding ashps back is the costs. Companies treating installation like a dark art, and using the government grants to print money)

I did...I want to say about 35 hours?

And I also supplemented with a g25 wheel/pedal set and ETS2.
Which helped more than you might expect (gear positions, clutch control, dealing with other traffic, blind spots)

G25 has been lent out to multiple friends to do the same thing too, so definitely paid for itself.

Theory, once you're paying attention to the road in general, isn't too bad at all. I paid about a fiver for month's access to a revision website, which had the material, and almost identical hazard perception clips.

You're allowed (iirc) 15 minors and still get a pass.

Minor issues are generally things that are mistakes, but mild enough that so long as you work to improve, the examiner is happy to pass you.

The same categories also have Major versions (1 fault fails the test) and Dangerous (1 fault halts the test entirely).

Control steering might be that OP had slightly sub optimal wheel technique, which meant they had a moment the examiner would have like to have seen both hands on.

Move off control might mean that they dumped the clutch a bit pulling away one time, and it wasn't smooth.

Awareness/Planning/Junction right could all have happened in the same manoeuvre (candidate hesitating at a junction, and pulling out after a car they could have comfortably gone before if they were more aware)

Progress: Appropriate speed can be missing that a speed limit has changed from 20 to 30, then accelerating when you realise.

I've still got the rap sheet from when I passed, and you can be damned sure after passing I was ironing them out.

Seeing the photos, and having been around way too many deceased estate properties, I can instantly smell the whole place.
Damp, old plaster, manky carpets, and the bathroom that smells faintly of old wee and Imperial Leather.

Was the MSP in the environment at the time?

Alleyway of origin, more like.

I think I've said before; If I can't be certain of the origin of the chicken, I just won't eat it in the future.