https://github.com/PCrnjak/PAROL6-Desktop-robot-arm https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PiBCbHtvbpE https://piped.video/watch?v=PiBCbHtvbpE

I'm not sure what the "fill out form if you are interested in building" link is all about on github, but at a glace, this looks like a solid project to build IMO.

I'm considering making some upgrades to my ender 3 Pro, such as one of the multi material upgrades, but that would require more motors. Anyone know of a good motherboard? Thanks!

I made a 3d printable eReader case for my wife. Wanted to test what would happen if we water logged them and left them in the sun to dry.

Two of the cases are made from PLA while the other is made from PETG. They are all held together by thread and leather.

The test here is to see if moving from PLA to PETG was the right move since the last time I did this, the case turned into a banana.

My eventual plan once I've finished with my testing is to sell these cases and make their designs available for others to print.

Can we discuss printing using services (jlcpcb, pcbway, shapeways etc) here? Materials, limitations, personal experiences etc?

I'm having a strange experience with JLC 3d printing service. 72 hours is looking to be a week tomorrow. Customer support said that they "will try to ship it soon" after I contacted them after the order status hasn't been changing for 2 days

This is so different to their main business, PCB making, which is extremely sharp and smart.

Upd: after contacting them, they shipped the order.

Please, use adequate ventilation (with a heat exchanger if you need to keep A/C in the room) if you're going to be resin printing inside. I don't want to see all of you guys get cancer from this hobby.

Have you ever wondered if the yellow/orange plastic windows that all resin/SLA 3D printers have are sufficient?

Here's your answer:

interesting data points:

• 500nm: 54.9% (transmission)
• 490nm: 37.9%
• 480nm: 16.9%
• 470nm: 1.6%
• 460nm: 0.3%

**What does this mean? Feel free to comment. **

My take:

First of all, this instrument is not designed to measure OD, so it can barely measure down to OD3. The actual value for 400-450nm could be lower (e.g. 0.001-0.0001% transmission).

SLA 3D printers work at 405nm. This means that the enclosure will likely protect you from the UV radiation of the printer. This is good news.

Does it also protect the resin from sunlight? To answer this question, it is important to understand how the resin behaves to wavelengths above 460nm (not measured). In my practical experience, it does not provide adequate protection. Clean the vat after each print or add another light-blocking layer for (short-term) storage.-

Just updated this under desk mount I designed for my Apple MacBook charger. I like the aesthetic of this design but I'm still not happy with the print quality because of the need for supports, and the overhangs of the curved base can be a challenge.

For my next revision I want to redesign the vents and mount points to minimize and overhangs and reduce/eliminate the need for supports.

Model by Fotis Mint. Took about 15 hours at 0.12mm layer height

I want to make this type of name plate for myself and others but I can not figure out what this is. Does anyone know what this is called so I can reproduce?

I've been using gyroid infil almost exclusively since I first tried it.

I was using cubic before, which was fine, but gyroid seems much sturdier for the same % infil even if it does take a bit more print time.

Also it looks awesome.

Recently I started printing on Bambulab (previously on Průša Mini). If anyone is curious about how much difference is it

Do you know if there are any electroluminescent filaments and where to buy them?

As title says. I got myself a filament runout sensor, wired it, designed and printed a holder for it and now I am experiencing some issues. I hope someone here can help me.

At first, the sensor is doing its job and seems to be working as it should. Printing is possible, but only with extra steps I would like to avoid. I use this sensor:

Creality Offiziell Filament Runout Sensor Kit Ender 3 Filament Erkennung Modul Detektor Gerät Original Pausen Erkennungs Monitor für Ender 3Pro, Ender 3 V2 mit 32 Bit V4.2.2/V4.2.7 Motherboard https://amzn.eu/d/3aR6o2e

I am using it on my standard Voxelab Aquila running Alex firmware. Slicing in Astroprint and managing over Octoprint on a raspberry pi.

The problem: The runout sensor sends a false positive right after starting a print. It draws the first line on the printbeds side and then stops telling me the filament ran out. It then proceeds to unload the filament and asks me to change it. I then re-insert the „new“ filament, it extrudes a load and then prints just fine.

So as you have possibly guessed right, I want it to print right away, just stopping the print, if there really is some jamming or no more filament left. Does someone know if I have to adjust the start commands or something like that? It seems to be a software problem.

Thanks in advance for any help!

but I think it might be!

Can anyone recommend a good place to get parts for a homebrew system (available to Canada, at a reasonable price).

Full disclosure, I'm actually looking to build a large 3D scanning system but in terms of movement of the camera heads, I've been looking at my printer and thinking that it could use a similar configuration though on a slightly larger scale (rails, with a wheeled+track system for horizontal and large spiraled cylinder for vertical) , but I have no idea where to source these sort of parts.

Any ideas?

I’ve got an esun dryer box, it seems to be working ok (it gets hot, fan works, it stays on for several hours) but I don’t seem to be able to get it to actually successfully dry my filament.

I’ve got a roll of PETG that’s been out for a while, had problems when printing (popping, lots of stringing, and it keeps crashing when bridging), I figured it’s just wet, but even after 8 hours of drying it’s no better.

So I just need to dry it for longer? Am I doing something wrong?

Recently did a test print with Creality Pla-wood. The smell during the print is amazing, I'm kind of hooked. I printed something flat, was easy to sand and stain looks incredible, 100% looks like wood. It's been 48h and no matter how much I wipe the thing it's still tacky / leaves a little residue on my hands. Do I just need to wait longer? Is this normal? Is it OK to clearcoat before absolutely bone dry / residue free?

What about sanding more complex structures? Do I need to get a sand blaster for this? Is there a dremel brush I could use?

(Not cross-posted by OP)

cross-posted from: https://lemmy.world/post/4445869

I designed 3D printed components to mount my ITX + 3080 + SFX to an IKEA Skadis pegboard, so it can be wall-mounted behind my TV.

3D printing details here: https://www.printables.com/model/571343-pc-mounting-kit-for-ikea-skadis-with-t-nuts

Made sure the stock firmware printed the example gcode that came on the SD card and then immediately embarked on my journey to get klipper running on this guy.

I didn't finish until the wee hours this morning so I've yet to really give it a go but all the essentials are operational.

Here's the GitHub link to the config I created: https://github.com/0xD34D/ender3-v3-se-klipper-config

I'm thinking of building a new printer and would love to be able to make 2 color prints or dissolvable supports. Does anyone have any experience with this. I see 3 paths.

1. Two hot ends Pros: Most robust No retraction or filament waste Cons: Alignment issues. Reduced travel Dragging nozzle

2. Dual filament hot end(taichi style) Pros: Easy to mount No offsets Cons: Jamming? Long retraction

3. Y splitter Pros: easy to mount No offset Compatible with any hot end Cons jamming Super long retraction

It still prints great, but damn is it not that pretty anymore

And yes, it's still flat

This was recently published on GitHub. I didn't try it myself since none of my printers are wireless, but I figure people may be interested to know it exists. We're still far from parity, but FOSS coverage of resin printers gets closer to coverage of FDMs!

I was printing a benchy on my monoprice select miniwitha a e3d v6 nockoff and I saw plastic ozzing around my hotend

Hello, I'm looking at getting an additional printer that's larger format, but faster. I've run across the Sovol SV07 Plus which appears to be new. I'm not familiar with the brand and as such was curios if anyone has had experience with them.

What might go wrong with them? (those dual X-axis bars look suspect due to wear)

How reliable are they?

Is there a better option?