3DPrinting

I have a Voxelab Aguila that I am about to install Klipper on. I also have a SKR E3 Turbo board left over from another printer.

Would it be worth installing the SKR board? Or will it not make any difference since the Pi is doing all the processing anyways?

I'm curious if anyone uses sandblasting for cleaning up their prints. If not, what's your favorite way to clean them up?

Took a couple failed prints to figure out something was wrong. Pulled the filament and saw it was melted WAY too high! Thankfully I've got a pack of spares, so pretty simple to swap out.

Screenshots: https://imgur.com/a/jp5fm3U

Slot 1 is loaded with Bambu Labs Aero PLA. Slot 3 is loaded with support material for PLA. No issue loading and they are recognized correctly by the printer. I do a resync in Bambu studio and the results are the same as before the resync (and they are correct).

I have tried saving the slice, quitting Bambu Studio, turning off printer, turning on printer, loading Bambu Studio, and then replacing and end up at the same spot needing to select the slot that has Aero PLA.

Anyone know how to get around this?

I've posted this to reddit before, but the post has gotten lost among an automod flurry. I've got some longer travel coming up and this thing has been on my mind again, so I'm looking for some suggestions!

I feel like this might/should exist, but I can't find it. Is there a program that allows for replacement screw cap generation by simply entering a diameter, depth, thread gap, and thread pitch? Would be really nice to have something like that. I the meantime, maybe I'll consider printing tpu corks/ stoppers with mid diameter equal to vessel opening diameter.

Hi everyone. I'm looking into my first 3D printer and would like a resin one for the great detail it can produce. I'm looking for companies that make respected machines that aren't out of China. I know of Prusa but their resin printer is incredibly expensive for me and a beginner.

As a second note, I would love to support a USA company as a first choice if available and like the software and firmware to be open source. I'm happy to have found PrusaSlicer with UVtools so there's one less Chinese/semi proprietary/subscription based software.

Here is my first published print. It's 3D printable wire duct. Working in industrial environments I've always leaned toward using wire duct for wire management. I couldn't find any I liked so I set out to make my own.

I've published it on Printables. You can find more details there about the print. I'd appreciate any feedback you can give me.

https://www.printables.com/model/567318-wire-duct

So I made Gandalf's staffs and put an insanely powerful flashlight in it so I could light it up like he does in Moria.

I saw someone else did a staff from Final Fantasy and they made it so you just had to bounce it on the ground and a rod inside on a spring (cylindrical boss) turns the flashlight on or off. I thought it was amazing but he wouldn't go into details when I asked him about it so I figured this out myself.

First I got some wood filament to print the staff. It actually smells like wood when you're printing. filament

The flashlight is what SWAT teams use to blind people and actually gets hot enough to burn you if you leave it on for too long. The flashlight has to be kinda locked into place between the top and the spring attached to the rod that runs the length of the inside of the staff. I put a bolt through the top to hold it in place but it can be unscrewed to take the flashlight out to recharge it. light

I wanted it to be easy to get to the flashlight so I designed the top to have powerful magnets printed inside it so you can just pull the top off if you need to get to it magnets

The actual model used for printed is a modified version of this from a very very nice guy on Etsy: staff stl

I had to make the staff much wider to fit the flashlight and boss, then I cut out a lot of inside of the top so there was more room for light to shine out, then the modifications for the magnets.

I used one of these for the internal rod rod spring

I printed a piece here to hold the spring and tap the button on the base of the flashlight.

and some 1 1/4 Charlotte pipe to put the outter print on as it wouldn't be strong enough if I just used straight PLA pipe

Printing took about a week straight and once it was assembled my wife used this video from Wesley Treat vid

to make it look like real wood. It took about another week for all the sprays and stains and modge poge and whatnot to dry. This was the stain we landed on stain

I'm pretty happy with the end result even though it is a little heavy. I'm pretty big and I didn't want it to shine directly in my eyes so I sized it to about 6'3 not counting the head piece.

It is bright as fuck, the videos don't really do it justice.

All said it probably took about a solid week to print all the pieces and then another 2 days to reprint the head after I dropped it and the magnets exploded out immediately stuck together which was both awesome and heartbreaking.

My wife probably ended up doing more work on it than I did. She also added a sort of silver leaf to the inside of the head to make it more reflective when the light is on. There were like 3 layers of that and some shellac to keep it in place.

The plan is to send it with our niece who is into cosplay to the Renaissance fair and see how it holds up for her. I might do a V2 someday where you just hit a button to turn it on so it can be thinner and lighter.

Hope you found the project as interesting as

all images and videos

So as title says I revived my beloved iPod, upgraded its storage and also modeled and printed some accessories for my iPod. I made a TPU case, a dock using the original cable and a storage box.

Everything is available for free on my printables:

https://www.printables.com/de/@Gorroth1007/models

Link to my first post (including whole storage upgrade process):

https://lemmy.world/post/3243217

Here are some additional pictures:

So someday ago I tried to fit in the "Back Mounted Electronic Box By Teaching Tech" On my Ender3 (OG). Only problems..... 1st: The box would not fit (The tolerances on my printer are awful) so I spent 2hrs sanding down the box. 2nd: The printer would not turn on, it took me a day to realize that I wired the cooling fan BACKWARDS.

My objective in this Project is to gain Cable Management on my printer (Which is now far worse than before btw, will try to fix) and I am running Klipper on a [RASPBERRY PI 3B+] (do you see where I am going?)

So I try to reduce the amount of unnecessary cables AND I WAS WONDERING (Since I saw the fact on a Teaching Tech video) if I could connect the raspberry pi power directly From the motherboard (SKR MINI E3 V2.0) to the PI's gpio to power it.

So my question is:

On what ports should I connect the two (+5V and GND) cables ON THE MOTHERBOARD and THE PI'S GPIO.

If you did not understand something feel free to ask me.

Video link: https://youtu.be/yW9ovo9CHi0?t=320

I found out Thangs locks print files and comments behind an account when I tried downloading my own files from a different device. I've decided to leave the platform and going back to my trusty old Thingiverse. I tried to find something new and better but maybe Thingiverse is just the place to be for now. New links below.

v.2: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6193644

v.3: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6193659

I recently picked up an Ender 3 V2 Neo at auction. All the pictures looks great, I was told it functioned, and I saw some pictures of it put together.

Long story short either they didn't include the bolts to mount the screen/gantry or kept them.

Does anyone know what screen bolts and gantry mounting bolts I need? Thanks in advance!

I know that paint doesn't work well with TPU and that the typical way to color a piece is with dye. Does anyone have experience decorating prints that will see heavy use? Like if I wanted to use multiple colors, can dyes be brushed on similar to how one might hand paint a model? Is there a better way to do what I want?

Saw this come through from Octoprint remotely. It was an 8 hour print and died about at about the 7:15 mark.

Having ordered my first 3D printer, I am giddy and preparing various things.

I have installed Octoprint on my home server as a Docker container, but when running it, it seems that it wants to have a serial connection to a printer. Octoprint expects to be running on a Raspberry that is connected via its serial interface.

What am I missing?

The printer I ordered (Prusa Mini) comes with a wifi dongle, so I guess there will be a way to reach it over the network. But that does not automagically mean Octoprint can work with it.

My printers do this from time to time where they just ignore everything i did tl make them work and start using factory values.

It always pisses me off but usually once i find which setting it is i put it to what it needs to be and it's done.

It's been 3 days of me giving my printer new e step values with zero result.

At first i adjusted the start gcode in cura but now i'm also using an empty print file with settings and it has no effect.

I have a 30:1 extruder and the values i used so far go from 92 all the way up to 33.000, it actually extruded more at 92 then it did at 33k. The extruded amount seems to be random compared to the e steps i put in, i don't really know what is happening.

I checked the extruder gears and they look brand new.

My account and posts from my previous tomato cube mold designs from Printables got taken down (probably VPN and/or Linux usage). Nevertheless, I found a better platform on Thangs.com. The search is much better and it searches other platforms as well as its own website.

I have linked my new and improved uploads with even tighter tolerances below for you guys to download. V.3 introduces a completely cube interior with none of that angled walls v.2 had.

V.2: https://thangs.com/designer/cad%20noob/3d-model/Cube%20Tomato%20Mold%20v.2-924366

V.3: https://thangs.com/designer/cad%20noob/3d-model/Cube%20Tomato%20Mold%20v.3-924368

I'm using Fusion360, and trying to make changes to .stl files.

I would like to know what your preferred way to make changes to print files is. For instance, I was trying to combine a clamp and a cup holder and dealing with the resulting mesh files is pretty frustrating.

If there's any guides or videos on how this is generally done, that would be helpful as well.

Even though most of the work was done by someone else, I'm still kind of proud of this print. I dipped my toes into the water and edited the design in Blender to improve the design. I'll upload the cube tomato in a month or so when it grows into the mold.

Edit: if you downloaded the first versions, I made a couple revisions that have tighter tolerances. I noticed some errors as I was printing a big mold so that is fixed now with v.2.2.

Edit: I've made a v.3 but my account got banned for some reason (probably usage of a VPN) so I think I'll consider other platforms that are VPN friendly.

Edit: my new post and account is here

https://thangs.com/designer/cad%20noob/3d-model/Cube%20Tomato%20Mold%20v.2-924366

I am a hobbyist, and my job will probably never require me to design and print anything for work.

I do really enjoy the process of conceptualizing, designing, and printing, and have done so for myself and some close acquaintances.

I've spent many hours/days learning the tools of the trade and was wondering if there was an opportunity to make some money as a side gig. Has anyone been successful doing this, and how did you go about it?

Here are a couple of my early designs, I plan to upload more once I clean things up a bit.

https://www.thingiverse.com/landon8848/designs

OK (I'm the same guy who posted with the petg not sticking) Before Yesterday I bought overture petg and I was deceived because I had all kinds 1f issues... But then I tried to put the bed at 90C and the nozzle at like 280 ant it worked... How come i have to print this hot 🔥?

This just happened for a second time.. I'm running octoprint on a windows desktop computer that lives next to the printer (no raspberry pi for me yet).

Twice now, it has disconnected mid-print. The printer and PC are both online and physically connected. Disconnecting and reconnecting in octoprint works, and I have been manually checking the last gcode sent successfully in the terminal and copying the remaining code out of the file from there and printing that - it works but if it has been disconnected for a while before I notice, the spot where the extruder was sitting gets a little melty and there are some artifacts in the print.

Is there any octoprint plug in that can automate this process so I don't have to manually edit the gcode? Or any tips on preventing disconnects?

I'm pretty new to this whole world of 3d printing and even newer to octoprint so I may be missing something obvious.

Thanks!