I am... unfamiliar with the ecosystem of print newspaper appliance reviews, but I can tell you that having sloppy or obsequious reviews isn't generally a sign of having taken a bribe or even having any direct influence from the manufacturer. Reviewing things is hard, by definition you are not in the same position as the people who will buy the thing later. It can be difficult to make that shift and appreciate value, particularly when it comes to tech where reviewers are often assessing the cool factor of whatever is new on the market while users just need a tool for everyday life.
Also, good reviews and hostile reviews aren't the same thing. This depends a lot on what is being reviewed, and it's not to say extremely protective reviews are bad themselves. This is more true in media reviews than on tech reviews, but even on tech reviews, some of my favorite people working generally provide fairly positive reviews, or very neutral spec reviews with relatively little judgement. Very often I don't need to be protected from harm, I just need a savvy overview of a thing before I pull the trigger.
But also, let's be clear, don't book product placement that looks like a review. And if you do, make it a full on ad and make sure it's presented as a sponsorship, although even when big names do that while trying to stay honest, or because they genuinely like the thing I don't particularly like it.
See, this is the exact process I am trying to describe. I'm sure that made sense in your head, and I'm sure if you think about it for a second you'll realize that Target will very happily set up an affiliate link, just as Amazon does. And, of course, a whole bunch of the SEO listicles are the SEO hooks of bigger traditional review sites, including RTINGS, IGN or whatever. For the sake of argument, punching in "best bluetooth speaker" on DDG returns SEO listicles from Tom's Guide, Wired, RTINGS, the New York Times, CNET and The Verge, in that order.
Which is not to say it's not annoying, affiliate links and SEO have done terrible things to how practical reviews on websites are presented and parceled out. But that's not to say they aren't done honestly or lack validity on the sites that do it right, which are also the more successful ones.