this post was submitted on 20 Jan 2024
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[–] [email protected] 13 points 10 months ago* (last edited 10 months ago) (16 children)

Wet shaving is still very much a thing; in fact in the last decade or so, it's had a renaissance of sorts (tho it was probably re-gaining popularity already in the early 00's). I've been a wet shaver for 2.5 years but decided to buy me an electric shaver because these days I have less time for wet shaving. It can done be quickly but what's the point if you've got to rush it. Links for those who got curious:

https://www.badgerandblade.com/forum/

https://www.badgerandblade.com/forum/media/

https://sharpologist.com/

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[–] [email protected] 19 points 10 months ago* (last edited 10 months ago) (13 children)

It can done be quickly but what’s the point if you’ve got to rush it

Yep a good shave needs time and most of all four passes: first with the grain, that's for the colleagues, second two at right angles to the grain, that's for your lover, and the fourth one against the grain, for personal satisfaction.

OTOH if you know what you're doing a quick and dirty shave is just as good as an electric one and you don't have to deal with batteries. If a short buzz cut is all you want do that.

The whole setup is a bit of a bother if you're new but basic guidelines:

  1. Shower. Well you don't 100% need to but dry skin and shaving don't mix well so do it before.
  2. A whisk and bowl, a cheap synthetic whisk is just fine the natural hair ones are a bugger to deal with anyway (have to take care to dry them properly etc), 5-10 bucks for the whisk, 25ct for the bowl in the euro store they came in a 4-pack, really tiny stainless ones. The rest I use for mise en place.
  3. Shaving cream/soap. Don't think you'll get away with using those self-foaming gels in a can they clog the razor, don't glide well, and I've never come across one that's nice to the skin. Comes in bar or tube form, some are better at gliding some smell better if you're lucky you get both, I'd put the palmolive shaving cream on #1 as "what to get when you don't know what you want": Glides very well, dirt cheap, forgiving when whisking, like a bit over a buck a tube.
  4. The actual foam: This is going to take some trial+error, you want extra water in it but don't make it a soup, you want fine bubbles and proper shaving cream/soap will make them have standing power (though if you're in a pinch you can use regular soap, no biggie). It should be nice and sloppy, with two 'c's. If in doubt, whisk more. Apply, then let soak, make coffee or something. Oh, some people don't use a bowl to whisk but do it directly on the skin. IMO they're madmen, it's like brewing tea in your mouth, but you do you.
  5. The razor. Lots could be said about geometry, about different comb sizes, ultra-fancy blade change mechanisms, long story short buy a Merkur 23C, 30-40 bucks, chrome-plated zinc and brass. Good weight, excellent general-purpose geometry, inexpensive, literally unchanged for a hundred years. You might be tempted to cheap out and get a Wilkinson they sell cheap plastic holders that take standard razor blades but trust me the only reason why they're selling them is to make people believe standard razor blades suck.
  6. The blades. Feather is the creme de la creme and might be just a bit too sharp for some, and also comparatively pricey. Russian manufacturers generally are good but given the situation let's boycott them, many western producers have spotty quality, that leaves BIC. Yes, the guys who also make lighters, ballpoint pens and surfboards. Bonus: Carton/wax paper packaging, if you re-wrap used blades and put them back in the carton you can toss them in the bin, no worries. How long a blade lasts depends on many factors, the biggest of which is your personal preference. But even if you buy feather blades and use a new one every day you'll still end up spending less money than using a cartridge system.
  7. Shaving: See the very top. Be aware of the grain, flip the razor over to wear the blades evenly, occasionally rinse it in the sink, you'll figure it out. Avoid being silly: Don't move the thing sideways over the skin that's how you cut yourself. The geometry of the razor will tell you the right angle, just let it lead. Always make sure there's good gliding going on, never tolerate resistance. Make funny faces to get skin into places where it's easier to shave, make it taught, etc. It's an ancient, secret art, traditionally transmitted from father to son, with a break in tradition you'll have to rediscover it for yourself.
  8. Cold (not ice cold) rinse. A very good way to wake up.
  9. Aftershave, a deeply personal matter. Generally speaking you want an astringent to stop any bleeding (also micro bleeds you can't see) and a disinfectant and something nice for the skin, my personal recipe is first alumina alum, rinse, then a bog-standard random face wash from the discounter, says aloe vera. The alum will burn worse than an aftershave with alcohol could ever burn but once you rinse it's over and I don't want to sit there with a slightly burning face for half the morning. As said: Deeply personal matter. Use whisky if you want I don't care.
[–] [email protected] 3 points 10 months ago* (last edited 10 months ago)

Thanks for sharing the instructions with folks here. As I said above, I've been a traditional wet shaver for two and a half years, so I pretty much know all this. However, wet shaving takes a lot of time for me and for various physical reasons and limitations, I cannot spend a long time shaving. I've learned how to speed up the process, but this means sloppier technique and it shows on my skin. At this point I want to give my skin a break by having a short stubble rather than going for BBS (that stands for BaBy Smooth) every single time. 😄 I don't mean to scare people away from traditional wet shaving, I'm just speaking for myself, who happens to have some motor function problems etc. If you're fairly "normal", there should be no reason not to try traditional wet shaving. It's a treat and something to look forward to every single time.

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